Vi et Armis - A review by Luca Turin

17 Jul, 2023
Vi et Armis - A review by Luca Turin

We were delighted to receive a copy of this coveted book, and to find reviews of some of our fragrances by well respected authors Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez.

A review of VI ET ARMIS in 'Perfumes - The Guide', by Biophysicist & Writer Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez

"Apparently the most popular neologism in Australia last year was "lumbersexual", a portmanteau of lumberjack and metrosexual, denoting the fact that the fastidious dandy currently comes equipped with a massive Marx-and-Engels beard. But I would argue that the very idea of this creature began in niche perfumery, where refined rusticity ruled long before it became a visual fashion. Perfumers have been ruminating smoky (Eau de Jatamansi, 2007) and rum (Yohji Homme, 1999) notes for years, and it was only a matter of time until someone decided to put them all together front and centre.

It is no surprise that a London firm like BeauFort should bring the idea to a peak of perfection given the British fondness for windswept shires dotted with low stone cottages harboring craggy poets puffing pipes. Vi et Armis smells like an alchemist's Christmas party, a dark, rich, swirling combination of peat fire and flambè spice pudding, with some cough syrup and fence paint thrown in for hygiene.

I have long wished for a fragrance like this one and am impressed that such a sweet spot could be found in what is otherwise forbiddingly medicinal territory. Vi et Armis arises from a combination of singleminded art direction and great technical skill. BeauFort boss Leo Crabtree also known as the drummer for The Prodigy, clearly knows what he wants. Perfumer Julie Marlowe has, it seems, brilliantly translate his vision into fragrance while managing to avoid the pitfalls of both mainstream (muzak for the nose) and niche (hunting horns up front, silence later) perfumeries. I have no doubt Vi et Armis will be widely imitates, but it's going to be mighty hard to improve upon."

Thank you Luca!


BeauFort London




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